Welcome to the Mountain People's Market

The Mountain People’s Kitchen: One Reporter’s Opinion
by Twyla Meding

Those who haven't visited the deli and tasted the lunch or dinner or specials recently are in for a pleasant surprise. Cooks Rick Hastings and Erin Hartman have transformed the Deli into one of the best restaurants in Morgantown (in my humble opinion--and I ought to know, since I eat lunch there nearly every day, and when I don't, I'm at the other restaurants that don't quite measure up).

Rick and Erin's scrumptious meals are innovative in their use of fresh, mostly organic ingredients (most obtained from the wide selection of organic produce now available in the store), their exploration of various ethnic cuisines (Mexican, Indian, East Asian, African, Mediterranean, as well as versions of down-home American dishes) and their creative fusioning of certain of those traditions, and most of all, their effort to make nearly all of their meals vegan.

As most home vegetarian cooks know, it is easy to obtain the satisfying mouth-feel (umami) of meat by enriching a dish with eggs, cream, or cheese. The task is much more daunting when all animal products are excluded. Rick and Erin rise admirably to the challenge and produce vegan meals that are delicious, filling, and well-balanced--meals that are so good and satisfying that they make you wonder why our culture puts so much emphasis on the consumption of animal products. (That's another question ...)

Don't forget that the portions are copious, too, and a great value for the cost ($6.75 for dinner specials, $5.75 for lunch specials)! Some recent dinner offerings include: White bean chili with smoked red salsa, avocado, and blue corn chips; Thai green curry with eggplant on brown basmati rice with coconut chutney; Black rice cakes with zucchini and lemongrass served with cucumber and sea vegetable salad; Red lentil dal on peppercorn jasmine rice with jerk tofu and date-orange relish; Chickpea-couscous croquettes with burgundy sauce over sautÈed greens. If you're lucky, you'll find some of these dishes recycled for lunch, but they're so good that you shouldn't count on it.

Despite the new focus on gourmet vegan cuisine, the Deli still retains its casual and convivial atmosphere, and of course still offers the old favorites that have been a mainstay of the menu for years. As is often the case in European cafÈs or pubs, you may well find yourself sharing a table with people you don't yet know well--a great opportunity to strike up new friendships with the diverse clientele that frequents our Co-op.

In addition, the creative energy and friendly spirit emanating from the kitchen are positively contagious. This is indeed an exciting time for the Deli. Rick and Erin prepare vegetarian cuisine that makes no excuses for itself. Bring along your carnivorous friends--they will be surprised at how delicious real vegetarian cooking can be.

In those moments when you savor one of Rick or Erin's original creations, as if by enchantment, our new cooks are transformed into chefs, our Deli into a gourmet restaurant, and the customer into a privileged diner who relishes a unique gustatory experience. There must be a Magic Pumpkin back there in the kitchen ... In short, DON'T MISS IT!!